WEAR Archives - TOKION https://tokion.jp/en/verb/wear/ Mon, 14 Nov 2022 11:32:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.3.2 https://image.tokion.jp/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/cropped-logo-square-nb-32x32.png WEAR Archives - TOKION https://tokion.jp/en/verb/wear/ 32 32 Kimono influencer Sheila Cliffe and the resurging appeal of kimono from a global and ageless lens https://tokion.jp/en/2022/06/02/kimono-influencer-sheila-cliffe/ Thu, 02 Jun 2022 06:00:00 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=118714 Kimono influencer Sheila Cliffe helps us rethink the beauty of kimono culture. In addition to its appeal as a fashion item, we reveal its allure from all angles, historical to cultural.

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Reused and upcycled clothes have become popular in the fashion industry in recent years. Japan’s kimono have gained worldwide attention as an embodiment of sustainability. Unfortunately, many Japanese people are uninformed about the national dress. We interviewed kimono influencer and researcher Sheila Cliffe, who is originally from the U.K., but resides in Tokyo. Cliffe has caused quite a stir. She calls herself a “kimono trend hunter”, and has gained a following on social media for her fashionable outfit coordinations. Over the years, she has contributed to many projects and events related to the kimono. In 2002, she received the Kimono Culture Promotion Award from the Association for the Cultural Promotion of Traditional Dress. Cliffe’s work has been recognized both in Japan and abroad, making her presence known across the globe. We asked her how her love for Japan and her appreciation for kimono has deepened with her ongoing work to spread the beauty of kimono culture to future generations.

Kimono = formal is an assumption. The appeal is in its versatility; it can adapt to changing purposes and body types

–– Can you tell us why you initially came to Japan?

Sheila Cliffe: I was 24 when I first came to Japan. I was learning shintaido in the U.K. at the time, and my instructor asked me if I wanted to train at a Japanese dojo over summer break. Once I got here, I thought Japan was so interesting. I wanted to stay longer, and I didn’t want to go home. Once I found kimono, that feeling of wanting to stay changed into determination. I couldn’t leave.

–– Do you remember what it was like seeing a kimono for the first time? Do you have an anecdote you’d like to share about that experience?

Cliffe: I really enjoy going to flea markets here. At first, I was drawn to pottery and bowls, so that was mostly what I was looking at. But then, the vivid colors of the silk kimono caught my eye. The first one I bought was a beautiful red kimono. I learned later that that was actually a nagajuban, which is something that you wear under a kimono, and that the red fabric was called momi. So technically, it wasn’t until later that I bought a real kimono. A store clerk in the kimono section of a department store recommended I try one on, and I impulse bought it. I didn’t have a lot of money back then, so it was tough afterwards. When you buy a kimono, you don’t just buy what’s on the price tag. You have to pay for the lining and the tailoring, too. Back then, I didn’t know much about kimono and couldn’t understand Japanese that well, so that was that. But I was obviously at a loss when I found out I had to pay twice as much as I thought I’d have to in three weeks. But I loved the kimono itself. I just had to turn a new leaf and get the money together… (laughs).

–– Do you still have the kimono that you bought then?

Cliffe: Of course. I take good care of it. I still have the photos from the fitting from after I bought it. I decided to take dressing classes because I thought it would be a waste not to be able to wear it after struggling so hard to buy it. First, I took a two month beginner course, then a course on how to clothe people in furisode and tomesode, and how to teach it… Before I knew it, I had completed many courses and had even gotten a license. When I started, I thought it would be enough to learn how to put a kimono on myself. But the more I learned, the more I grew enamored of the kimono world. And my Japanese language ability grew enormously at the same time.

–– Kimono are thought to be difficult to put on yourself, hard to move in, and formal. How do you feel about these assumptions?

Cliffe: I think those same things can be true for western clothes, too. It’s all how you think about it. It’s hard to sit on the floor with a tight pair of denim pants on. Dress shirts and neckties can feel formal, and it’s hard to move around with a restricting item of clothing like a corset on, as well. On top of that, you don’t have the freedom to take off western clothes when you’re uncomfortable. I think kimono are highly versatile because they can adapt to your bodies changing condition or size, simply by adjusting the obi’s tightness. If you want to ride a bicycle or be more active, you can arrange your outfit by pairing the kimono with monpe. It’s very comfortable.

Kimono are a great tool for people who love fashion and want to express themselves through clothing

–– Please tell us, again, what you think is the appeal of the kimono.

Cliffe: I think kimono are a great tool for people who love fashion and want to express themselves through clothing. Nowadays, when I look around to see what people are wearing normally, most of them are wearing black, white, beige, navy… and the pattern variations are always checkers or stripes. It almost feels like everyone’s wearing a uniform. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but I’m sure some people feel a need for more. Humans are instinctively creatures that adorn themselves with things. I think more people will discover the beauty of the kimono when that need is recognized. The shape of the kimono hasn’t changed much over time, but there’s a lot of variation in color and pattern. That’s why just looking at a kimono can open your imagination and tell an idea or story.

–– You often wear accessories like pin-back buttons with your kimono. I’d like to know how you come up with these mixed outfit coordinations that don’t play within a particular set of rules.

Cliffe: I enjoy combining things that may be unusual. My outfits may seem outrageous, but fundamentally, I wear my kimono how they’re supposed to be worn. But it’s boring to be restricted by rules, so I try to make a statement by saying, “these are some possibilities. Kimono can be fashionable, too”. I wear pin-back buttons with cotton kimono, which are not damaged by the pin because of their coarse-grained material. It’s more fun that way. I also like to focus on the combination of colors and patterns. People think it’s difficult, but if you stick to three colors to coordinate, anyone can do it. It’s also fun to create an outfit based on a story. For example, I like old movies, so I may draw inspiration from wanting to be like Audrey Hepburn. Or if I want to be in a romantic mood, I think of ideas based on that. Spreading out my favorite kimono and accessories around the room and thinking about how to put them all together is the most luxurious way to spend time.

–– You also post your outfit coordinations on Instagram. Your book Sheila Kimono Style tracks your outfit inspirations in great detail, too.

Cliffe: There are a lot of books about how to coordinate kimono, but they’re usually organized into different kimono schools systems, which makes the hurdle seem too high for most. Conversely, I wanted to write a book that people could casually pick up like a fashion magazine. My first book was a great success, but many people suggested I include more outfit coordination ideas. So in my second book, I took pictures of the items I used and explained the thought process behind my outfits. As you can clearly see from the photos, unlike western clothes, kimono embody a culture of adding items. The possible coordination combinations are endless. The accessories I buy don’t have to stick to any genre, though. Anything I like, I add to my kimono coordination. That kind of freedom kimono provide can make it an even more familiar item. For example, instead of using a small bag that’s used solely to wear with a kimono, you can choose a bag that’s more useful and modern in its design. I usually look for accessories at second-hand stores, and like to “treasure hunt” at large, warehouse-like places. I sometimes even combine pieces I like and create my own accessories.

–– It’s common and accepted to combine unlikely pairings within western styles, like wearing denim with a tuxedo jacket. Do you think that kind of outfit coordination can work with kimono?

Criff: If it’s a formal event, one should pick appropriate attire. But I think it’s fine to freely style kimono if it’s for fashion purposes. I bring this topic up in my book, too. I introduce some total coordination ideas around the theme of “elegance” using a combination of hats and shoes. It’s nice to be able to enjoy a mixture of kimono and western clothing. I wear my kimono with turtleneck tops, denim pants, and boots sometimes.

The connection kimono have with the West and Japan’s unknown history

–– The kimono’s appeal lies in its affinity for both the Japanese and Western worlds. There are various theories about Japaneseness, but do you think mixing cultural items was inevitable, since the kimono itself has been greatly influenced by Western culture?

Cliffe: That’s true, kimono have a very deep connection to Western history. I was involved in Europe’s largest kimono exhibition in 2020 at London’s Victoria & Albert museum, “Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk”, which covered the connection between kimono and Western history in great detail. For instance, the Tokugawa family had a kimono made from silk woven in Lyon, France. If you go back even further, it’s said that Edo chintz was created by imitating Indian chintz. These connections aren’t limited to kimono, but it’s true that Japan and Europe have had a long history of influencing each other. Toyota used to make mechanized looms, and there is a well-known story that the patent rights for one of them was purchased by the British textile machine manufacturer Platt Brothers, and that capital led to the later development of the automobile industry in Japan. I continue my research because there’s more to be known about the kimono’s appeal by digging into history. Recently, I’ve been working with people from Kawagoe to look into and revive the tradition of tozan, which is a cotton weaving type made in Kawagoe. Thread has been found for Tozan that was made in Manchester, proving that Japan was a part of international trade networks.

–– You have a deeper understanding of Japanese culture and history than a lot of Japanese people. But what are some things you like about the U.K., your home country?

Cliffe: I love how much greenery there is in the U.K. The beer’s good, too (laughs). I also love that they preserve old things. The beret and gloves I’m wearing today are from an antique shop in the U.K. The shop is in a repurposed old cotton mill. It’s very spacious, with a rock climbing gym attached to it. And a portion of the space is reserved to learn about the history of the cotton mill. I think making use of buildings that may one day be torn down is a good quality that the U.K. possesses.

The possibilities that kimono have from a sustainability standpoint

–– How do you feel about the recent reevaluation of kimono in terms of sustainability?

Cliffe: Kimono can be worn even if your figure changes, and its basic structure has changed little over time. In that way, I think kimono is an ideal sustainable item. I think many people are tired of the rapid changes in fashion trends, and of the fast fashion industry in general. I think it’s really important to keep old things alive. I love and own a lot of vintage kimono, but some of the older ones are in the wrong size. Unsewing those kimono, washing the fabric, and re-working them into new kimono can be costly, so I enjoy wearing them in different ways. There are many Japanese people who have kimono at home. Through the Kimono Closet Project, I’ve had many people show me and share anecdotes about the kimono they have in their closets at home.

–– Kimono have been trending among the youth as an Insta-worthy item. How do you feel about this?

Cliffe: I definitely feel the momentum of the next generation. Younger people who’ve released books, who’ve thought of new ways to tie obi, and who give outfit coordination advice that’s completely different from my approach, are all very reliable sources that help keep up tradition. There are also more people now who enjoy wearing kimono as a fashion statement than ever before. Especially in a place like Kyoto, kimono rentals are very popular. Through those trends, I’ve seen many people enjoy making their kimono look fashionable. When I first came to Japan, I rarely saw anyone dressed in kimono around town, and that always felt bizarre to me. Among them were people who were interested in kimono but didn’t know where to start. What I want to tell those people is that in order to be better at it, you have to start out being bad. That’s an important step in the process. No one has the right to tell you you’re wearing something wrong, so ignore the “kimono police”. You can wear it poorly when you’re first starting out. There are so many things to enjoy in this day and age. There’s no reason to choose to wear a kimono if it’s not fun. That’s why I think it’s my duty as an influencer to share special ways a kimono can be enjoyed more widely.

Photography Masashi Ura
Translation Mimiko Goldstein

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Hoping to make a change with intimate underwear: the message of Bambi Watanabe, founder of gender-neutral underwear brand Bushy Park https://tokion.jp/en/2022/02/05/bushy-park-bambi-watanabe/ Sat, 05 Feb 2022 06:00:00 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=92587 What’s the message behind gravure (glamor) model Bambi Watanabe's gender-neutral underwear brand Bushy Park: "Underwear that anyone can wear, regardless of gender”?

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As a gravure model (Japanese equivalent to a glamor model), Bambi Watanabe garnered attention in 2019 after being on the cover of a foreign Playboy issue. In the same year, she founded gender-neutral underwear brand Bushy Park under the concept of producing “Underwear that anyone can wear, regardless of gender.” The brand’s features are its tongue-in-cheek nature, as seen in stitched messages like “PLEASE ACTIVATE” and “Click here” on the crotch area, and the use of loud colors that aren’t gender-coded.

One could interpret the underwear designs as the antithesis of queer issues being seen as too complex to approach. Watanabe asserts that she strives for diversity and acceptance, where people can wear what they want at any size.

What does Watanabe want to say through Bushy Park’s gender-neutral underwear, something one only shows to a lover and a garment that best resembles what one feels inside?

Gender-neutral underwear for everyone

ーーYou’ve built a career as a gravure model. You graced the cover of a foreign Playboy issue and became a Playmate (an official model for the magazine). Currently, you’re the creative director of Bushy Park, a gender-neutral underwear brand. What made you start it?

Bambi Watanabe (Hereinafter Bambi): I’ve been working as a gravure and underwear model, where I show a lot of skin, since high school, but I wanted to start my own business. I didn’t know what I wanted to do specifically, but I felt like I could run a business using underwear because that’s what I wear for work. That’s how it started.

ーーI didn’t know you started doing gravure and underwear modeling in high school.

Bambi: I did. Triumph International Japan held a national “best hips” contest in 2018, and I won that. I then got scouted by a talent agency for mainly gravure idols and made my debut in the entertainment industry as a high school student.

ーーI heard you were the first Japanese person to be on the cover of Playboy. How did that come about?

Bambi: I auditioned for it around three years ago. I struggled with how Japanese gravure models had to butter up to fans at the time. People thought black-haired “younger sister” types were better. We weren’t allowed to dye our hair, wear unnatural-looking makeup, and tan. It didn’t feel authentic to me. When I went to New York, I truly felt like I would break down if I continued to work within Japanese media. That’s why I decided to audition for an international publication of Playboy.

ーーWhy Playboy?

Bambi: Since high school, I would collect different magazines because I thought women’s bodies were beautiful. Among them, I liked foreign entertainment magazines for adults. I especially admired models in Playboy; they were so pretty.

ーーYour brand collaborated with Playboy. Was this made possible because you became a Playmate?

Bambi: The collaboration didn’t happen only through connections as a Playmate. Since becoming a Playmate, I wanted to use the famous rabbit logo for my brand, so I asked them. They understood the designs and what my brand was about, and our official collaboration became a reality.

The promotional video for Bushy Park x Playboy

ーーAt Bushy Park, the concept is “Underwear that anyone can wear, regardless of gender.” Why did you become interested in the idea of gender-neutral underwear?

Bambi: When I first started contemplating starting an underwear brand, I planned on making it for women. But when I came up with my ideal design, I couldn’t make it happen budget-wise. So, I went back to the drawing board and created underwear prototypes for men. Once I started making more, I realized it could be cute on women, and I also wanted to wear them. I asked my childhood friend and designer, who happens to be queer, to design for the brand. So, I decided to make the brand gender-neutral.

ーーCome to think of it, you see women wearing briefs for men on some American films and shows.

Bambi: Right! In America, it’s not unusual for women to wear briefs. In America and Europe, there are a lot of gender-neutral underwear brands, but there isn’t a lot in Japan. There isn’t a widespread culture of women wearing briefs. It’ll make me happy if our values toward wearing underwear could change because of Bushy Park.

ーーSo, you didn’t set out to create a gender-neutral brand. I thought you started making gender-neutral underwear because you were interested in the queer community.

Bambi: Wako Elementary School, where I studied, had a strong sense of freedom; I didn’t question others’ sexuality in terms of who liked who. I grew up and spent my 20s not knowing about discrimination against queer people. But once I started working with my childhood friend and designer, I began to hear about real issues people in the community have.
Among my childhood friends, many of them went abroad and moved there after graduating from high school. I would visit them, and some of my guy friends would wear heels and makeup and have a partner of the same gender. When I asked them why they didn’t return to Japan, they said things like, “People would laugh at me if I dressed like this” and “I haven’t come out to my parents yet.” They told me it was hard to live as their true selves in Japan. I was glad my friends had a positive mindset, where they thought they should move abroad if Japan wouldn’t accept them. That’s also why I never felt like they discriminated against me because of my gender, either. But when I heard it was tough for them to live in Japan, it made me sad.

ーーIt’s true. I get the impression that it’s easy to feel ashamed here.

Bambi: Compared to a few years ago, Tokyo’s becoming more open, and there are fewer instances of people talking behind other people’s backs. But when you go to other regions, many people are still getting bullied. They can’t come out to their parents or blend in with their peers at school; they have a difficult upbringing. I hear about such things from people from the queer community and those working in Shinjuku Nichome.

ーーSo, you began learning about such issues after starting your brand.

Bambi: Yes. I began taking it seriously because of Bushy Park. Of course, I knew about the community, but I discovered the reality—like how within Asia, Japan is way behind, and bullying still exists—after working with my childhood friend, who I mentioned before. Right now, I go to Nichome to listen to people and actively partake in pride parades in New York, Europe, and Taiwan, the first Asian country to legalize gay marriage. I’m learning by listening to many different people.

Using a streetwear vibe and humor to bridge the gap between queer people and cishet people

ーーHow did learning about queer and gender issues influence your brand?

Bambi: After starting the brand, I’ve come to feel like queer and gender issues are very dire. And I need the proper knowledge to talk about said issues online. Of course, it’s crucial to possess the knowledge and be understanding. But my approach has shifted to trying to make both queer and cishet people see that it’s simpler than that.

ーーCould you expand on that?

Bambi: Whenever I go to queer events and panel discussions, this is obvious, but everyone there has a connection to being queer. The speakers are queer, and so are the people in the audience. But I don’t think discrimination will disappear if [queer topics] don’t spread further. With Bushy Park, not only do I want to reach queer people or those interested in the community but those on the polar opposite side. That’s why I choose locations that are associated with streetwear. I sometimes use skaters as models and take streetwear-ish photos and tones. Aoi Industry does the embroidery. Some people tell me that Bushy Park is a brand that’s run by someone who’s not in the community. It’s not about who’s in or not in the community; if we don’t get rid of that barrier, then I don’t think discrimination will ever go away. I feel like it’s my mission to get rid of this boundary.

ーーWhat factors are essential in regards to the underwear design?

Bambi: The things I prioritize are the size and color. The underwear comes in small, medium, and large, as people come in different sizes. To create the best fit for both men and women, we use rubber that stretches and doesn’t get too tight. I try to use various colors so that it’s not associated with gender discrimination. These are the two key aspects in regards to creating gender-neutral underwear.

ーーThe placement of the icon is unique. Is it a deliberate choice?

Bambi: Yes. I don’t want people to think gender-neutral garments are an unapproachable topic. The humorous words and motifs are on the crotch area so that people who find out about the brand could find it amusing.

ーーWhere does the brand name come from?

Bambi: There’s a park in the UK called Bushy Park, and it means a fun, bushy place like thickets and forests. It has a different meaning in slang, and people in the know find it funny like, “What a wild brand” and “That’s amazing” (laughs).

ーーWhat sort of brand do you want Bushy Park to be in the future?

Bambi: Originally, I planned on throwing events like shows and parties instead of only selling underwear. But covid happened right after I founded the brand in 2019, and I couldn’t do it. In 2020, I set up a pop-up shop in Seibu Ikebukuro and a booth at an event in Miyashita Park, but I still couldn’t organize shows and parties. I want to eventually make a physical event happen instead of stopping at running a gender-neutral underwear brand. Not only do I want to throw events in Nichome, but also Shibuya, Harajuku, and regions that still have problems. The idea is for Bushy Park products to “tag along” to those events.

ーーIt’s an interesting notion for products to tag along to a brand’s event or show.

Bambi: I believe underwear garments are delicate things only shown to a crush or lover. In that way, it’s the closest thing to your inner feelings and heart. Different people have different physical parts, and that’s why I want to create and spread gender equality through underwear that’s closest to one’s inner life. I want to overcome physical differences and reach others’ inner lives.

ーーLastly, what can we do to manifest and spread gender equality?

Bambi: It’s simple; you have to accept other people’s individuality and diversity. If your friend likes the same gender or is a man who enjoys wearing makeup and heels, don’t make fun of them and don’t laugh at them. It’s enough to accept them as they are. It’s such a simple thing, but it’s challenging for some to do it. Instead of thinking it’s too hard, each person needs to be aware. If we want to create and spread gender equality, that’s imperative.

ーーTrue. It’s easy to say that we need to recognize others’ individuality and diversity, but discrimination exists because we can’t put that into action.

Bambi: Whenever I get interviewed by media outlets about queer issues, they sometimes ask me about deep, serious topics. But there are many things I can’t talk about as someone who’s not queer. That’s why my message is simple; accept others’ individuality. I hope to continue making underwear, which people only show to their lovers, as one way to convey my message.

ーーIt’s great that the underwear has humor. Even for someone like me, who’s not knowledgeable, it’s relatable.

Bambi: Anyone can learn about things through watching foreign shows and documentaries on streaming services like Netflix. Not only gender issues but sustainability and environmental issues too. I think the younger generation has more knowledge and education than ours. If we make things easier to understand and inclusive, we can make a difference right now. I’d be happy if Bushy Park could contribute to that in a small way.

Bambi Watanabe
Since debuting in 2007 as a gravure model, Bambi Watanabe has released multiple photo books and DVDs. She became a Playmate after being on the cover of a foreign Playboy issue in March 2019. Aside from being a gravure model, Watanabe works as an actor and has been in Tokyo Island (2010) and the TV series Ama Chan (2013). She’s also been in variety shows such as Dancing Sanma Palace and Waratte Iitomo!. In 2019, Watanabe founded the gender-neutral underwear brand, Bushy Park.
https://onlyfans.com/bambiwatanabe
Instagram:@bam0915 / @bushypark_tokyo
Twitter : @0915Bambi

Photography: Sumire Ozawa
Translation Lena Grace Suda

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Yeohlee Teng’s “Zero Waste” Philosophy: Thoughts on her roots, the future of fashion and Japan https://tokion.jp/en/2021/11/07/yeohlee-tengs-zero-waste-philosophy/ Sun, 07 Nov 2021 06:00:00 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=71493 Globally acclaimed Asian-American fashion designer, Yeohlee Teng, talks about her roots and her thoughts on Japan.

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Yeohlee Teng is one of the most prominent Asian American female fashion designers. Originally from Malaysia, she has made the mark in the global stage of fashion design. 

Her artistic approach to design has gained recognition around the world. Her work has been exhibited in prestigious museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York and Victoria & Albert, London. Made based on mathematical constructions and “Zero-waste” sustainability policy, her garments have the fluidic beauty seen in movement. She is also selected as the “Board of Director’s Tribute” at the CFDA Fashion Awards hold in November 10th.

Recently, I had the honor to be featured wearing YEOHLEE’s garments in a film produced by the photographer Thomas Concordia. Through this unique opportunity, I was able to witness the beauty of YEOHLEE’s design, as exemplified by distinct geometric patterns woven in carefully chosen varying fabrics. In this interview, Yeohlee talks about her creative concepts and design process, as well as her perspectives on the future of fashion design.

“Mie Iwatsuki wearing YEOHLEE”
Movie Direction Thomas Concordia

Inspiration gained from keeping my mind open to things surrounding me

――Despite the fact that many designers today value profits and create products with much waste, you have always prioritized quality, minimalism and “zero-waste” in your design. Many people believe that your philosophy is ahead of time and some view your work as art. Could you tell us where you draw inspiration from; and how you create within the “zero-waste” principle?

Yeohlee Teng (Yeohlee): The Inspiration comes from keeping my mind open to things surrounding me. It can be the quality of light, a shape or form, music, art and architecture, a person, the wind, clouds, and life.

‘Zero waste’ is mentality of those from small island. When you come from a tiny island you understand that resources are finite. You learn to value what you have and to appreciate the real value of things surrounding you in the situation where resources are finite (seldom endless) and you never have enough time.

――You are a master of designing clothes that can be worn in every season.

I have also read that your design is gender neutral. You have adopted “Sarong”, a traditional Malaysian style that accommodates any genders, in part of your design before. I wonder if your cultural background may have something to do with your unique emphasis on versatility and functionality? Can you tell us about its impact on your work, if there is any?

Yeohlee: Yes! I had a wonderful childhood growing up on an island that’s 46 miles in circumference. For fun you either rode your bike around the island or hiked up Penang Hill. I painted several murals at school, designed costumes for “The Importance of Being Ernest”, “A Tale of Two Cities” and “Lady Windermere’s Fan”. Existing costumes were housed in the clocktower at school – it was an inspiring and awesome education.

――Your work is often exhibited in museums, often juxtaposed with artists such as Richard Serra who shares a similar choice in materials and production. Your work also reminds me of sculptures and architecture. An example comes to mind is one of the great architects in history, Mies Van Der Rohe who is known for “less is more”, the striking simplicity in monotone, the free-flowing open space, and the beauty in the material itself. Do you have any artists that you like or/and have inspired you?

Yeohlee: Yes. Recently, I was impressed by the exhibitions of Lee Lozano, Deborah Remington, and Niki de Saint Phalle which were all held in New York. They were truly awesome and inspiring!

――Are there any Japanese designers and artists you like? Have you been inspired by Japanese culture as a designer? 

Yeohlee: AKIRA KUROSAWA is a true master! From “Rashomon“(1950),”Seven Samurai“(1954),”Throne of Blood“(1957), to “Yojimbo“(1961), he left great masterpieces. I love Japanese textiles, art, architecture and cinematography. Definitely, these disciplines are spiritually connected. Also, I respect YOKO ONO as a true artist in every way.

Inspired by The Nakagin Capsule Tower which is also known as “Salarymen’s Cubes” built in 1972 by architect Kisho Kurokawa, we created box sleeves with square armholes for Spring 2016 Collection.

――I was honored to be featured with your garments in a film produced by the photographer Thomas Concordia. It was filmed at Modernhause SoHo, a new hotel in SoHo where intricate staircases were constructed to create an almost labyrinth-like effect. The garments chosen by you had distinct fabric, silhouette and geometric patterns, which all show beautifully regardless of the background colors. Can you tell us  about your design process? I recalled that you always start from choosing the fabric. Would you mind sharing more details of the entire design process?

Yeohlee: First of all, it was truly inspiring how elegant and regal you looked in the clothes. It was a total harmony.

I start with an inspiration gained through feeling something, choosing fabric and imagining color hue.  The feeling, the touch, the weight, the content of the fabric, the weave or knit, the pattern and often the selvedges: All of these elements are closely connected.

Also, the sound plays an important role as well. My favorites are Carl Orff, the White Stripes, the soundtrack from Kill Bill Vol 1, Nico and the Velvet Underground and listener-supported-radio station WFMU and the late Charlie Watts, drummer and backbone of the Rolling Stones. Then, there are mathematical calculations and magical moments in the process.

The theme of the Spring/Summer 2022 collection: “EXTINCTION”

――I learned that recently ‘made-to-measure’ custom design has become a large part of your business. I believe that many people would like to own a piece of wearable art tailored to their individual needs. I recalled the custom design process starts from having the clients choose a fabric. Can you share more with us regarding the process of custom design?

It begins and ends with the quality of the collaboration with the client. I love the process of learning about the client’s needs and giving them a polished finish.  It’s a very personal learning experience and it can be a very rewarding for both the client and the creator – you can liken it to the Vulcan mind meld indeed!

――We have seen many cases of violence and discrimination against the Asian community in recent news. As an Asian American designer, what is your view on such issues and do you have any message you would like to share with the community?

Yeohlee: What I would like to convey is, “Together we stand, divided we fall,” the phrase often quoted as Abraham Lincoln’s statement.

――You often advocate sustainability and environmental issues through your work. In recent years, the Pandemic and ongoing environmental issues have posed great challenges worldwide. What changes would you like to see in the fashion industry? And what responsibilities in your opinion designers and consumers need to undertake today?

Yeohlee: My answer to it would be this question – “How many pairs of sneakers do you own?”

――You must dedicate most of your time to your work. Do you have any other hobbies outside of work? How do you spend your holidays?

Yeohlee: I am spending time with the people I love whenever and wherever I am.

――The 2022 Spring Fashion week is approaching. What will be the theme of the 2022 Spring / Summer collection for YEOHLEE? Where and how will it be shown? Can you give us a quick preview of the type of garments we may see in this season?

Yeohlee: The theme for SS2022 is EXTINCTION. Hopefully by now it is out and available for viewing……

――What’s next for YEOHLEE? What shall we look forward to in your future work?

Yeohlee: The answer lies in a question which is “How much time do I have?”

Yeohlee Teng 
Yeohlee Teng is one of the most prominent Asian American female designers originally from Malaysia. She received the Smithsonian’s Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award for fashion design in 2004. Her work has been exhibited in prestigious museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York and Victoria & Albert, London. YEOHLEE’s collections are designed, developed and produced in New York’s Garment District. Today her atelier is located at 12 West 29th Street in the NoMad/ Flatiron District. 

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GU and Undercover to launch second collaboration on October 29; kids’ items also available https://tokion.jp/en/2021/10/13/gu-x-undercover-vol-2-2/ Wed, 13 Oct 2021 09:00:00 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=68179 The lineup includes 28 men's styles, 20 women's styles, and 8 children's styles, with prices ranging from ¥490 to ¥6,990.

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“GU will launch its second collaborative collection with Undercover on October 29 at GU stores nationwide and online. The collection consists of 28 men’s styles, 20 women’s styles, and 8 children’s styles, ranging in price from 490 yen to 6,990 yen. 

Following their first collaboration for the 2021 Spring/Summer Collection, this collaboration is also a fusion between Undercover’s distinct and unique style and GU’s key concept “FREEDOM” that embodies the brand’s aspiration for an enjoyable fashion for everyone, realized under the keyword “FREEDOM/NOISE.”

The collection consists of items designed in the Undercover style, where street and mode sensibilities coexist, featuring original patterns, graphics, and characters created by Undercover designer Jun Takahashi exclusively for GU. This year’s lineup includes men’s and women’s seasonal wears, autumn and winter goods such as scarves and gloves, loungewear and original figures. Kids’ items (sizes: 100-160cm) will also be available for the first time.

MENS

WOMENS

KIDS

For more information about the items and the stores where they will be available, please visit the special website.

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Actor Shuhei Uesugi Dons dunhills New Collection for the Fashion Shoot Carried Out at the Brand’s Newly Opened Concept Store in GINZA SIX https://tokion.jp/en/2021/05/31/dunhill-ginza-six-concept-store/ Mon, 31 May 2021 06:00:02 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=34462 Fashion visuals shot with actor Shuhei Uesugi donning dunhill’s new collection. The photos of styles shot in the city of Ginza released along the interview.

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Ginza is a city in Tokyo known as an epicenter of fashion and culture. GINZA SIX is located in such city of Ginza and houses a slew of shops with solid concepts. dunhill GINZA SIX Concept Store is a popup store opened in April on the second floor of GINZA SIX. The store embodies the brand’s heritage as a foundation and displays products that are a match to the modern fashion scene; it is a space where dunhill’s both traditional and innovative attitude is intertwined with the identity of the city, Ginza, which keeps evolving even today.
This time, TOKION has carried out a shoot for the fashion visuals with Shuhei Uesugi, who is an actor, singer, and model of wide versatility, donning the new collection showcased at dunhill GINZA SIX Concept Store. Along with the shoot, we were able to hear Uesugi’s viewpoint on fashion and his episodes around dunhill.

Shuhei Uesugi x dunhill GINZA SIX Concept Store

dunhill shirt ¥148,500, Short sleeve T-shirt worn underneath ¥81,400, Pants ¥64,900, Shoes ¥130,900, The lock bag ¥261,800 (Wrist strap ¥39,600)
Left: dunhill jacket ¥264,000, Shirt ¥132,000, Pants ¥73,700, Shoes ¥130,900, The lock bag ¥261,800 (Wrist strap ¥39,600)
Right: dunhill shirt ¥148,500, Short sleeve T-shirt worn underneath ¥81,400, Pants ¥64,900
dunhill jacket ¥330,000, Shirt ¥115,500, Pants ¥64,900

I want to always keep embracing the classics

――GINZA SIX is a large shopping complex located in Ginza—what kind of image do you have towards the city of Ginza?

Shuhei Uesugi (from hereunder, Uesugi): In Tokyo, most buildings that have been built in the past couple decades look stark. Though, if you look at the city of Ginza, there are a lot of unique buildings while the historic cityscape of Tokyo is preserved, and it makes me feel good just walking around the city. So, Ginza has been my favorite city of all time. Also, there are old tea houses and Kabukiza theater in the city. For shopping, it’s a bit too high-end for me, but other than that, it’s a place where I can explore many new things. Also, the streets are designed in a grid and exude a historic vibe. But they are mostly one-way streets, so when I drive in the city, I often end up going around and around the same place [laughs].

――In GINZA SIX, located in the historic city of Ginza, dunhill GINZA SIX Concept Store has opened. The store carries an array of fashion clothing targeting the young generation as well—Please tell us your thoughts on the opening of this concept store.

Uesugi: Today, I also visited the flagship store (dunhill Ginza flagship store,) which is within walking distance from the new concept store; I thought it’s significantly meaningful that the historical brand, dunhill, has created an open space in GINZA SIX, where different kinds of people gather for different reasons.
I think it’s crucial to adapt to each new generation and present ideas to the younger generation, not only for brands, but for anyone expressing themselves. In a way, it’s a deliberately designed space, where you can also feel dunhill’s attitude of challenging the modern era.
Though, I personally admire dunhill’s classic elements, so even if times change, I want those elements to be everlasting.

――Essentially, what kind of image do you have of dunhill?

Uesugi: No doubt, I have a strong image of it being the quintessential classic brand that provides products for mature men to wear. I myself, used to use a golden lighter from dunhill, and quite often wear the brand’s vintage clothes. For some reason, I’ve been feeling close and familiar to the brand for a long time. Like, it’s always been near me. So, I’d say, it’s my all-time favorite brand.

――So, you feel like it’s a brand exquisitely made for gentlemen.

Uesugi: That’s right. I think it looks cool when people around my age don the brand’s clothes. Actually, I’d like to see them on people who are younger than me. I want younger people to try on these classic clothes. Today, for the shoot, I had a chance to hold the brand’s signature bag, and it made me happy to know that along the cutting-edge designs, the brand embraces their authentic items keeping them the same since the old days. Like, the brand’s gimmick hasn’t changed, and they’ve been carrying on the classic forms. Also, the double-breasted jacket that I wore for the shoot was formally and beautifully designed, but also modified to be worn more comfortably by using linen fabric. I’ve realized that the items are made into a modern fit while keeping a lot of the traditional features.

Instead of being satisfied with myself, I want to constantly set the bar high for myself

――Now, can you describe your perspective on fashion. Also, has it changed at all from the pandemic?

Uesugi: I’d say the baseline hasn’t changed. By the way, it’s not about Covid or anything, and it was probably the timing but, I’ve started thinking that I should wear more good quality clothes even if they’re expensive. Before, I used to wear vintage clothes and pick based on the silhouette and size, without paying much attention to the price and brand. Of course, I still love vintage clothes, but now I wear clothes or brands with price that used to be too much for me to spend. What’s good is good. So right now, I want to be a person who looks good in things that are truly beneficial and valuable. Plus, brand new products look refined and feel comfortable when worn. And the products from dunhill fit my current mood. But to be clear, I don’t need to own a lot of clothes, and I want to wear the ones that are genuinely good for a long time.

――How is it going with music and your acting career?

Uesugi: Regarding music, you see, I’m in a big group called KANDYTOWN. So, there are things that can’t be said on my own, but what’s definitive is that, right now, we’re just about to start working on our new project. We did a show in May, so now, I’m hoping to get started on our next work. For acting, I can’t spoil the details yet, but I’m now working out for the upcoming work. So, I would say, right now I’m in the process of taking in ideas for my various works.

――Would you say, you are spending each day to the fullest with your creative activities?

Uesugi: I think so…. It’s hard to explain, but I feel like there are a lot of people around me, who are more liberated and authentic to themselves than I am to myself, so I strive to be like them, but speaking of work, I think it’s going quite well. Now, I’m constantly figuring out ways to express myself more freely. There are constant worries, but I think I’m on the right track as there are a lot of fun things I get to do, like today’s shooting. Instead of being satisfied to the current state, I want to make sure that I live each day with diligence.

Shuhei Uesugi
An actor born in 1992, in Tokyo. As well as appearing in many TV dramas and commercials, he is a rapper belonging to the hip hop group, KANDYTOWN. Currently, he is preparing for his upcoming acting work.
Instagram:@shuheiuesugi8

dunhill GINZA SIX Concept Store
A temporary concept store opened in April. The store showcases the brand’s new items, iconic leather goods and accessories, and selected items by creative director, Mark Weston.
Address: GINZA SIX 2nd Floor, 6-10-1 Ginza, Chuo-ward, Tokyo-city
Opening hours: 10:30AM – 8:30PM
※Store hours are subject to change. Please call the store for further information.
Holidays: None
TEL:03-6891-3390

Model Shuhei Uesugi
Movie Masataka Saito(RIGHTUP)
Photography Takaki Iwata
Styling Takeshi Toyoshima
Hair & Make up Taro Yoshida(W)
Text Ryo Tajima
Translation Ai Kaneda

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TOKION And NOWHAW’s Collaboration Pajamas On Sale From April 16th — A Set Of Short Pants And A Long-Sleeve Top, Including a Matching Tote Bag https://tokion.jp/en/2021/04/16/nowhaw-x-tokion/ Fri, 16 Apr 2021 02:00:00 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=29109 The collaboration item born from the conversation between TOKION curator Daisuke Gemma and NOWHAW designer Kōtarō Togawa comes in three variations: navy, Elliot tartan check, and stripes, each priced at ¥37,400.

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“NOWHAW” is a pajama brand based around the concept of building a “new, unpredictable, and surprising holiday and world.” The pajamas produced by designer Kotaro Togawa and his wife and producer Chuuson have gained popularity for their playful and conceptual designs while pursuing comfort and functionality.

The collaboration item born from the conversation between Togawa and TOKION curator Daisuke Gemma will be on sale from April 16th. The price is ¥37,400, and the item will be available at MIYASHITA PARK’s “TOKiON the STORE” and TOKION’s official online store.

The model name is tokion. This model features a set of short pants and a long-sleeve top, made to easily adjust your look depending on the weather of the coming season. The set also includes a bag made from the same material as the pajamas, designed to be the same size as the L-size plastic shopping bags of the NOWHAW family favorite supermarket, perfect for shopping or going to a sentō. Compared to NOWHAW’s other lines, the jacket has a looser width and larger armholes, and the shorts have wider hips, resulting in a more relaxed silhouette. The items are all 100% made of natural cotton (piping excluded), with a great feel on the skin. There are three different variations. The navy and Elliot tartan check flannel fabrics are washed to give them a softer texture. The refreshing blue and white striped pajamas are woven with fine count yarn at a high density, resulting in impressive flexibility and smoothness, perfectioned by the elegant luster of the satin fabric. All variations are designed for comfort.

With rounded open collars and pipings, the items are designed to be “pajama-esque,” although full of NOWHAW’s ideas combining design and functionality: one of the best traits is the Chinese-style jacket-like fastener which uses a covered button for an easier fastening. The large pockets on both sides of the jacket can comfortably fit paperback books and comics, making them easy to use and accentuating the appearance; the short pants’ pockets on both sides, as well as the back right pocket, are also made to be deeper. Like other NOWHAW pajamas, the item features belt loops to hang your keys, a secret pocket behind the collar, and the phosphorescent name label that makes the outfit easier to find in the dark after taking it off. These pajamas are perfect to be worn both at home and for a little outing to the neighborhood.

Model Tina Koyama, Simon Hunt
Photography Ryusei Sugimoto
Styling Hiromi Mori
Hair & Make up Arina Nishi
Translation Leandro Di Rosa

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Daisuke Gemma and NOWHAW’s Kotaro Togawa in conversation — Pajamas: fashion’s ultimate example of self-satisfaction https://tokion.jp/en/2021/04/09/pajamas-fashions-ultimate-example-of-self-satisfaction/ Fri, 09 Apr 2021 06:00:00 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=28139 “What kind of pajamas do you want to wear?” — A conversation between Daisuke Gemma, curator of “TOKiON the STORE,” and NOWHAW’s designer Kōtarō Togawa. Collaboration Pajamas On Sale From April 16th.

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In collaboration with both Japanese and international artists, “TOKION” is producing various merchandise to be sold at “TOKiON the STORE” in Miyashita Park and online. For this project, TOKION’s curator Daisuke Gemma explores the numerous opportunities for product development in conversation with his personal selection of trending individuals.

For this interview, Kotaro Togawa, designer of the pajama-making company “NOWHAW,” tells us about the brand’s concept of a “new, unpredictable, and surprising holiday and world.” Along with his wife and producer Chuuson, NOWHAW produces conceptual outfits such as jacket-shaped pajama day, which can be worn all day, or the “calming” design of the no-collar, fly-front pajama shhh. The brand also excels for its convenience, full of amusing and sensible details such as small pockets to fit paperback books, belt loops for when you need to go out, secret pockets on the back of the collar, phosphorescent woven name labels, and more. The pajamas are not only comfortable to wear but also very durable and easy to wash, thanks to their strong and stable stitches. NOWHAW also collaborates with contemporary artists such as Ken Kagami and Masanao Hirayama.

As the spontaneously funny brand’s concepts and designs suggest, Togawa himself is especially humorous, leading to a friendly and peaceful dialogue from beginning to end. What kind of pajamas will be born from this conversation?

Daisuke Gemma: About six years ago, I found NOWHAW’s kung-fu (a Chinese-style jacket) in a magazine and thought it was super good. After that, I contacted Togawa-san immediately and met him for the first time at his exhibition.

Kotaro Togawa: I was so surprised when you came. Without even thinking, I just blurted out something like, “What?! You have free time?”. (laughs)

Gemma: NOWHAW itself is good, of course, but I also thought that all members of its team had good character and were insanely funny.

Togawa: You laughed no matter what we said; Chuuson and I were so happy. I thought you had to be a reliable person since you took an interest in such an underground pajama brand like ours.

Gemma: The more I know about the brand, the more I realize how exquisite the level of design is; every outfit follows a specific concept.

Togawa: I’m happy to hear that. We started the brand because of people like you and Hiroshi Fujiwara, who make a living through your taste in fashion and music. You actually wear our pajamas, right?

Gemma: In the summer, I wear T-shirts and shorts, but I often wear kung-fu in the winter. You can even wear it to go to the convenience store.

Togawa: It’s cool to put your effort into dressing up nicely, but I really like when it looks effortless, which is one of our strong suits and what we aim to. When I started NOWHAW, I lived in Daikanyama, and the idea was to make pajamas that people could wear at a place like the nearby Tsutaya bookstore, so you don’t have to change before going out.

“Everyone loves to loaf around, right?”

Gemma: What made you decide to make pajamas in the first place?

Togawa: I’ve always loved wearing pajamas and spending time at home. I started NOWHAW after I turned 30, and one of the reasons was that I wanted to make something I could continue doing comfortably for a long time. Also, the public image of loafing around at home isn’t very good, but I’ve always thought that secretly everyone loves to.

Gemma: I actually love to. I have a sofa in my house that I call the “one-person sofa,” which lets you stretch your legs; on my days off, I just sit there looking for movies I want to watch and just spend my time without thinking about anything.

Togawa: I’m the same. I go through my daily routine just for that kind of time. That’s why I decided to create a brand that specializes in loafing around at home, and at the same, integrates my favorite cultures and influences I got through the magazines I used to read, even letting me collaborate with different artists.

Gemma: Before the corona pandemic, I kind of thought that everyone was trying too hard to get out of their houses.

Togawa: Loafing around is surprisingly good for you, too.

Gemma: You also become more particular about what you put in your house.

Togawa: At first, everyone told me it wouldn’t go well. Generally, people spend money on clothes they wear outside; pajamas are a niche market, after all.

Gemma: Well, people enjoy clothes through self-satisfaction, and pajamas are a prime example of that.

Togawa: Exactly, I thought so too. Some people tell me that NOWHAW is in line with the times, but you were the first one who found us. You even came to the exhibition six years ago.

NOWHAW’s functional beauty and fit

Gemma: NOWHAW’s pajamas have different concepts behind them, right?

Togawa: Well, one of their strong points is that they’re not making that too obvious. Pajamas are different from common fashion; they’re mostly seen as daily necessities, but I think that you can play with the design as long as comfort and functionality are guaranteed. Besides, other people are not supposed to see them, so it doesn’t matter if they fit or not, you can just buy them if you want to wear them.

Gemma: Now that I think of it, pajamas are the ultimate private outfit. I don’t really show them to anyone, so when I buy them, I choose what I actually like, and in that sense, I think pajamas are the essence of fashion. Did you make any clothes before starting NOWHAW?

Togawa: I was a pattern designer for a designer brand—or I wish I could say that, but that’s not actually the case. When I was in my twenties, I used to ride garbage trucks for work; I even worked in the kitchen of a shop called “Wakeari Jukujo Kurabu” (in Japanese, Secret Agenda MILF Club). I was just aimlessly living my life without committing to a regular job. After that, there were twists and turns; I was also a sales staff for A.P.C. I was doing quite well, too.

Gemma: What an unexpected side of you.

Togawa: My experience with serving customers really comes in handy, even now. Customers go shopping with a limited budget, right? So, when they’re wondering if they should buy a product, trying to convince them with sales talk like, “It suits you,” or, “It works with your pants” is just pointless; it doesn’t stick. In these situations, talking about the features of the product gets the customer excited.

Gemma: Oh, that’s interesting.

Togawa: For example, “This pocket can fit an iPad mini.” Even if it’s made-up, talking about the functional beauty of things helps to push the customer forward. NOWHAW pajamas include many functions suitable for being inside your house. Also, comfort-wise, it’s better to wear pajamas loosely, so I recommend a larger size for those worried about the fit.

Gemma: They’re functional, and they look cute if you wear them loose.

Togawa: Since ancient times, there’s a saying: “Better too big than too small.” My mom used to say that often. Sometimes I remember my mom’s punchlines.

Gemma: You have to listen to what your mother says (laughs). Many of your designs are based on daily life; when do you come up with such ideas?

Togawa: I’m not doing it on purpose, but if I notice some kind of problem in my daily life, I’ll incorporate it into my designs later. However, I’m not the deft type, so I tend to scrap my samples. Chuuson’s judgment is pretty strict.

Gemma: Your voice suddenly got quiet (laughs).

Togawa: I’m the one who plans and designs, but it’s Chuuson who decides whether it’s good enough to sell. She doesn’t mince her words; she says stuff like, “Who would wear that?”.

Gemma: Chuuson is a good one. She’s making you stronger, right?

Togawa: I always reply with a sad yes and return to my work as if nothing happened. To be fair, I’m grateful that even if she doesn’t like something, she’ll let me make the sample anyway.

Gemma: Sounds like a good relationship.

“What we want to wear” — The collaboration with TOKION

Togawa: We’re not very good at sales; Thankfully, there are nympho-like fans like you who ask about our products.

Gemma: Who are you calling a nympho? (laughs)

Togawa: The thing is, we love our nymphos; we are influenced by them, and they understand us. To me, you’re like a senpai, so it’d be an honor to collaborate with you.

Gemma: It’s important to share an archetype, or rather, common sense when making something together.

Togawa: Collaborations are fun for me too. At the end of the day, though, we all want to make what we want to wear, right? You like shorts, and I think they work with a long-sleeve top. If it’s the middle of summer, you can wear shorts and a T-shirt, and if it gets a little cold, you can wear a long-sleeve top like a coat, and you can wear that for a long time. NOWHAW pajamas’ tops and bottoms are always made with matching materials; the real thrill of collaborating is how much you can play inside such restrictions.

Gemma: It could be interesting to put gussets in the pockets.

Togawa: I always want to make tote bags of the same size as the L-size plastic shopping bags of the supermarket I often go to. I think it’d be very cute to wear pajamas with a bag that has the same pattern.

Gemma: Once, I was stopped and questioned by the police, and when I asked them why they told me that it’s because I was wearing all black (laughs). So, this time I want to make plain navy pajamas instead of black ones.

Togawa: “Pajamas for those who don’t want to be questioned;” sounds good (laughs).

Kotaro Togawa
Born in 1980, Hokkaido, Kōtarō Togawa started his brand NOWHAW with his wife Chuuson in 2013. He also collaborates with artists such as Ken Kagami, Masanao Hirayama, Yuki MIKAMI, BAKIBAKI, Shunsuke Imai, and calligrapher Mami. In addition, he is currently developing other lines such as Twilight, a line of before-and-after pajamas room wear, and HOMESICK by NOWHAW, 100% made of silk pajamas that will make you miss your home.
www.nowhaw.com

Daisuke Gemma:
Born in 1975, Gemma moved to the U.K. in 1996. In 1997, he began working for Browns in London, launching his career as a buyer. After returning to Japan in 2002, he established the Nakameguro select shop FAMILY, where he became executive director. In 2007, he ventured off to establish his own office. Since then, he has worked as branding director of CELUX (a members-only club for LVJ Group). Currently, he works as a creative director at sacai and a buying consultant for Lane Crawford, a specialty luxury store from Hong Kong. He is also a member of the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry’s Fashion Policy Council.

Photography: Kazuo Yoshida
Translation: Leandro Di Rosa
Cooperation: MIDORI.so NAKAMEGURO

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Flower Artist Group AMKK and Evangelion’s Co-produced Merch On Sale at “TOKiON the STORE” from March 8 https://tokion.jp/en/2021/03/08/evangelion-amkk/ Mon, 08 Mar 2021 02:00:00 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=21846 AMKK, led by Makoto Azuma and Shunsuke Shiinoki, co-creates flower bouquets and merchandise products based on Evangelion. The line-up includes T-shirts, hoodies, and an MA-1 bomber jacket.

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Since its airing on television in 1995, the Evangelion series has continued to gain fans across generations and national borders. In order to unravel the beautiful and mysterious story of Evangelion, with its complex themes, relationships, and its characters’ mental landscapes, fans and researchers of the series have carried out various studies and analyses. The series, which has maintained its popularity for more than 20 years, is to be considered a social phenomenon going beyond the simple image of an animated show and is established as one of the most representative creations of Japan; its film series Rebuild of Evangelion, which started in 2007, will finally come to an end with its last installation Evangelion: 3.0+1.0 Thrice Upon a Time, released on March 8. Many will be looking forward to a completely unpredictable ending.

At “TOKiON the STORE”, a collection of Evangelion merchandise products will be on sale from March 8, co-produced by the creative collective AMKK, led by flower artist Makoto Azuma and botanical photographer Shunsuke Shiinoki, who have collaborated with various luxury brands around the world. In addition to T-shirts, long-sleeve T-shirts and hoodies, the collection will include an MA-1 bomber jacket from “Alpha Industries” and winter sandals from “SUBU.”

In line with the collaboration, AMKK also produced four different artworks based on EVA Unit 01, 00, 02, and 08. AMKK’s creative concept is based around the themes of life and death in flowers, fully pursuing their beauty from their full bloom form to after they wither; this can also be found inside the work created in collaboration with Evangelion, which aims to display the flowers’ strength and vitality while respecting Evangelion’s original color schemes. The beauty of such tones is emphasized by the Evangelion comfortably blending into the bouquet’s colors.

Furthermore, AMKK also produced graphics of the “Decisive Battle Weapon” Evangelions holding a bouquet instead of their weapons. The company has been pursuing the diverse beauty of flowers since its beginnings; now, its collaboration with Evangelion, which story always reminds its viewers of the duality of life and death, lets us recognize their beauty in both forms.

An interview about this production with AMKK’s Makoto Azuma will be released soon.

Photography Shinpo Kimura
Translation Leandro Di Rosa

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A talk with the founder of The Salvages on thought regarding the new collection “Hybrid Creatures” featuring a collage of musics and movies https://tokion.jp/en/2021/02/11/the-salvages-hybrid-creatures-2/ Thu, 11 Feb 2021 02:00:52 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=20315 A collection that reconstructs musical and film motifs from the 1970’s and 1980’s. Photos of the models HIMAWARI and ALI’s Cesar have also been released.

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The Salvages released new collection “Hybrid Creatures” on February 4th at TOKiON the STORE. This collection features T-shirts and sweatshirts representing music and movie motifs which founder Earn Chen and designer Nicolette Yip love. The artworks focus on the jacket of English Gothic rock bands, collages of U.S. music and movies named “HEAD”, and mixture of movies based on 1970’s New York gang culture and the rise of reggae in Jamaica. The unusual collages show the experience of Earn and Nicolette and aesthetic of The Salvages. To coincide with the launch, the photos feuturing the models HIMAWARI and ALI’s Cesar teken by @fuckingshun were also released. This time, we asked Earn to talk about his thoughts on each band and movie.

Earn: I grew up on these album covers, music and movies. In my and Nicolette’s mind, we find a similarity in terms of the aesthetics, graphic and words. Somehow we feel they are inter connected. So Nicolette and I decided to patch them up.

Siouxsie And The Banshees


Siouxsie is the ultimate female icon of our times and one of Nicolette’s favourite feminist icons. She has so much style and grace. I saw the band performing in the 1988 and the show had a big impact on me. I know the ‘eyes’ graphic is very similar to the Peter Murphy’s.

Bauhaus


Bauhaus has a big influence on me. I was too young for Bauhaus, but I managed to see them separately as Love & Rockets & Pete Murphy solo. As a teenager, I listened to them a lot and watched their music videos closely. Like Siouxsie And The Banshees, they have Immaculate stye and attitude. The eyes t- shirt is most iconic t-shirt from the band.

This Morta Coil Filigree & Shadow


I am a fan of 4AD records which consists my favourite bands such as Cocteau Twins, Dead Can Dance and Pixies. Particularly supergroup from the label, This Mortal Coil. Filigree and Shadow is their second album. Of course, I noticed the eyes on the album cover too.

Talking Heads Remain in Light


Remain in Light is one of my favourite album by Talking Heads. Produced by Brian Eno. David Lynch x David Bryne compliment each other, don’t you think?

Eraserhead


As a pre-teenager in the 80s, I saw a photo of David J from Bauhaus wearing this tee and thought it was a band, later I found out its a cult classic movie by David Lynch.

The Warriors


I was barely 10 years old when I watched this movie. I thought the movie is really cool. I rewatched them recently again and still find it very cool. Such a timeless classic.

Rockers


I love everything about this Jamaican movie, from the fashion to the music and culture. The best scene is ‘This is the take-over’ part.

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The Salvages will release T-shirts and sweatshirts recreating 1970’s and 1980’s music and film graphics on TOKiON the STORE https://tokion.jp/en/2021/02/04/the-salvages-recreating-70s-80s-music-and-film-graphics/ Thu, 04 Feb 2021 02:00:49 +0000 https://tokion.jp/?p=19006 Using goth rock and movie graphics loved by founder Earn Chen and designer Nicolette Yip. They will be released on February 4th.

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Singapore fashion brand, The Salvages, which started in 2016, has been creating items of the culture that founder, Earn Chen and designer Nicolette Yip love. On February 4th, The Salvages will release T-shirts and sweatshirts emblazoned with images of music and movies from the 1970’s and 80’s on TOKiON the STORE.

Three “eyes” selected from the visuals of British bands

The sharp front graphic is of Siouxsie And The Banshees, fronted by Siouxsie Sioux, and the quintessential Goth rock band, Bauhaus. The back print features a jacket from This Mortal Coil’s second album, Filigree and Shadow. This Mortal Coil was founded by Ivo Watts-Russell, who owned the 4AD label which signed Bauhaus, and musicians from the label take part in fluidly.

A playful mix of “HEAD” from U.S. music and movies

Filmmaker David Lynch’s 1977 debut feature-film Eraserhead is a rather absurd, esoteric work with strange characters, but has achieved a cult-like following. Images from this is combined with the album jacket of Talking Heads’ fourth album Remain in Light, who were active through the 1970’s and 80’s. This is one of the greatest albums of all time and blossoms with the fusion of rock and African beats that the band is known.

Two works from the 1970’s with an impressive collection of characters

The Salvages also make items that mix movies. The front printed has images from the 1978 film, Rockers, which starred Jamaican reggae musicians of the time, including Leroy “Horsemouth” Wallace and Jacob Miller. The back is inspired by the 1979 film, The Warriors, which follows the feud of a unique gang.

Photography Shinpo Kimura

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